Scotland, Part 2: Edinburgh

Edinburgh was a day of jaw-dropping moments. Like fireworks, where each one you see, you think, "wow, that's my favorite" until the next one, and you say, "no, wait, that's my favorite....wow, that one...no wait, that one...." :-) You get the idea, right?

Glasgow has sections that feel 18th century, but it still feels like a modern city. Edinburgh is medieval, majestic, old. I felt truly transported to another era. From the moment I emerged from Waverly train station to standing on the summit of Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh was one awe-inspiring moment topped by another.

Edinburgh is a 1 hour train ride from Glasgow. I took a 7am train there and a 5:30p train back. With just 8 hours or so, I decided to focus on the Royal Mile. This is a road that stretches from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyrood.

 I also thought it could be dubbed the Mile of Wool, Cashmere, Tartan and Tweed, as nearly every other shop along this road seemed to be a wool, cashmere, tartan or tweed shop. :-)

One of many wool, cashmere, tartan and tweed shops on the Royal Mile!

Edinburgh Castle

On a high outcropping of rock overlooking the city sits the iconic fortress of Scotland, Edinburgh Castle. My first view of this massive castle, as well as the 360 degree views from it, was so powerful I cried. Literally, the power and beauty of it made me cry.

I paid the 17.50 pound entry fee, and yes, it was worth it. Beyond the gates, massive walls built into the rock tower above you

At least one section of the current castle date back to the 1100s!

The wide road opens onto a courtyard surrounded by mulitple stone structures--from a former governor's mansion to barracks.

At the top and innermost sections of the fortress stand a war museum and sections which were used as a Royal Palace.

Entrance to the Royal Palace at Edinburgh Castle

Gold trim on the Palace windows

There are stunning views from every point.

View from Edinburgh Castle

Views from Edinburgh Castle

View from Edinburgh Castle

The Royal Mile

Descending from the castle, impressive stone buildings along a cobblestone street extend as far as the eye can see.

On the Royal Mile

There is much to visit along this road, including multiple museums, gardens and charming alleys between the buildings, called a "close".

Literary references abound, to the delight of English majors everywhere. Below is a picture where Samuel Johnson & James Boswell hung out (supposedly)!

St. Giles Cathedral

The splendid St. Giles Cathedral sits along the Royal Mile route.

Besides being a beautiful church--you should definitely step in and admire it's stone arches-- there are memorials to many influential Scots, including Sir James Young Simpson. Apparently he was the first doctor to successfully use anesthesia on humans, though there seems to be some dispute about this on the internet. Whether it was him or someone else, I'm glad someone figured it out!!

Interior of St. Giles Cathedral. You can take pictures for a 2£ donation.

St. Giles Cathedral

Can there be a more quintessential Scottish pub?

Oh wait, yes. This one.

The Scots' sense of humor was on charming display.

A warning to consider before entering the "tourist trap" of the Royal Mile :-)

More beautifully restored stone buildings along the route.

I was happy to mostly meander along the road without going into any museums, though there were several that looked really interesting, including The Writers Museum, The Museum of Childhood and The People's Story Museum (all free!!).

The Writer's Museum, Edinburgh 

John Knox House

I did, however, step into the John Knox House. Though not necessarily a house he lived in, it dates from his time period (c. 1530). It provided an insightful and honest--both the good and the bad-- overview of this complicated reformer.

"Love God above all and thy neighbor..."

"...as thyself"

Beautiful fireplace and stained glass window in the John Knox House

Dunbar's Close Garden

One of my favorite moments of the day was when I stumbled across a small garden tucked away behind the busy street .

I love finding hidden gardens in unexpected places (Rabbit Trail: A few weeks ago, we even discovered a tiny but lovely garden in Lititz, PA, just a few steps from the main road. Despite living near Lititz for most of my life, I'd never known of this public garden. It's behind the Johannes Mueller House). Stepping into this beautiful walled garden, the busy street sounds of the city fade. It's peace and quiet give respite to the weary traveler.

A lovely place to sit in peace for a few moments.

After a few minutes of wandering in this lovely garden, I set off, refreshed, to complete the remaining bit of the Royal Mile.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

At the bottom of the Royal Mile sits the Palace of Holyroodhouse--the Queen's official residence in Edinburgh. (The Scottish Parliament is across the street, but I'm waaaay more interested in royalty than politics, so I skipped that. :-) )

This truly grand and beautiful palace was amazing! Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take pictures inside, so go to the official website to get a glimpse of some amazing rooms. Besides the grand Gallery, the throne room and other state rooms, the tour includes the apartments of Mary, Queen of Scots, where her husband, Lord Darnley murdered  her Italian secretary, David Rizzio. It is truly amazing to stand in the very spot where such dramatic scenes of history took place!

Holyrood Abbey

Attached to the back of the castle sits the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. These magnificent ruins have been the inspiration for poetry and music, including Mendelssohn's Scottish Symphony.

Palace Gardens of Holyroodhouse

In case you haven't noticed, I love gardens. So while I can't show you pictures of inside the Palace, instead I'll share some from the lovely gardens.

Holyrood Abbey viewed from the Palace Gardens

Gardens at Holyrood Palace in Autumn

Have I mentioned the weather yet? It was a clear, crisp, sunny, spectacular autumn day. Yes, I said sunny. I was strongly warned to expect dark, rainy weather at the end of October. Instead I had a week of almost perfect sunny Scottish weather. Perhaps climate change has its advantages. :-)

I love the contrast of textures and colors in this planting.

A perfect day for a walk in the garden.

Could there be a more perfect day for this scene? I couldn't stop taking pictures of this view---the green grass, the sculptural tree, with the hills of Holyrood Park and Arthur's Seat in the distance.

Arthur's Seat

And now for the crown jewel of my day in Edinburgh. As I left the Palace, the craggy hills of the national park adjoining the palace beckoned me. The beautiful sunshine, blue sky and cool crisp air were irresistible. It was only 2pm, so I decided to hike Arthur's Seat.

According to wikipedia, Robert Louis Stevenson called this "a hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design", which I find a perfect description. It will certainly provide you with a serious workout for your thighs and calves, but it is doable in an afternoon. The paths are clearly marked and there are generally lots of other tourists climbing with you. There was a crowd of at least 40 other people at the summit, I'm sure!

The lower paths were smooth like this. Toward the top it was a bit stony (and there are steps). But I'm going to stop talking now and let the pictures give you the rest of the story.

Stunning!! Glorious!! Amazing!! There are no words to describe the beauty of this hike on this day. My legs felt like jelly by the end and were crazy sore the next day, but of course it was completely worth it.

This was the stunning finale fireworks display, the crowning jewel---you pick your favorite metaphor ---for my day in Edinburgh. And I didn't even come close to seeing a quarter of this amazing city!

I wanted be in Glasgow before it was too late, so I took a 6pm train back and had plenty of time to rest up for my next adventure: a 2-day trip to coastal town of Oban and the Isle of Mull, part of the InnerHebrides. If you can believe it, the spectacular views and experiences were only going to get better.

So stay tuned!!


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