Scotland Part 1: The People Make Glasgow

I am reviving this defunct blog to share details on an amazing trip to Scotland.

As a life-long anglophile, I assumed that my first trip to the UK would be to England. Scotland wasn't really on my radar. I thought it would certainly be nice to visit, but it wasn't the main trip I was dreaming of.

However, an unexpected opportunity to visit Scotland dropped into my lap, along with a ridiculously low-priced airline ticket, a place to stay, and the chance to travel with a friend who had lived there. So I went. And now, I have advice for all of you: GO TO SCOTLAND. It is amazing, beautiful, fascinating, quirky and profound.

An autumn afternoon in Glasgow

I will be posting some re-caps, in several parts:

Part 1: Glasgow
Part 2: Edinburgh
Part 3: Oban & the Isle of Mull - 1
Part 4: Oban & the Isle of Mull - 2
Part 5: St. Andrews

There are many other beautiful places I didn't get to visit, especially the Highlands & the Isle of Skye. I probably could have squeezed one or two more things in, but I was happy to see some real highlights without burning out. I gave myself space to breathe, relax, discover, meet new friends. And it was one of the best trips I've ever taken.

I did about half of my touring alone. While I definitely want to travel there again with family, I really enjoyed the opportunity to do several days of this trip solo. There is a freedom to explore and relax at the same time. To set the pace, then push forward when you want to and stop when you need to rest. It was amusing & instructive to observe the people around me.

Glasgow

View from the Necropolis, Glasgow

Glasgow makes a great base for exploring Scotland and it's a wonderful city to explore in its own right. Plus, the Glaswegians (and Welsh, English, Irish, and South African) I met were wonderfully friendly. From the train conductor who put me on the right train after I'd missed my stop (and gone about 30 min beyond) to the cab driver who brought back my friend's cell phone to her when she left it in his cab, the people in Glasgow were friendly and helpful.

Out of the week I had in Scotland, I spent two afternoon and evenings focused on touring Glasgow. Here are 5 activities and/or places of Glasgow that I explored and highly recommend. You could easily see all of these places in one full day.

1. Walking the City Centre

If you love walking the streets of cities just because of the impressive and interesting architecture, the feeling of grandeur all around you, then Glasgow City Centre is that in spades.

I met my traveling companion and some of her friends at The Butterfly and the Pig for a meal as delicious as the name is charming. Plus it has the perfect oldy-worldy feel that you're looking for in a city that was around in the 1500s.

Glasgow was once a major ship-building center of the UK and a prosperous Victorian city. Its downtown streets are lined with stunning, ornate architecture. After lunch, I began my exploration near St. George's Square, the heart of Victorian Glasgow.

City Hall, St. George's Square

If you want to see some beautiful mosaic tile, step inside the atrium of City Hall, Glasgow

Nearby, streets lined with impressive, ornately carved Victorian buildings, reflect Glasgow's confident and prosperous history.

"People Make Glasgow"

As we walked farther away from City Centre, the architecture changed. It's ornate Victorian buildings gave way to the cleaner lines and more restrained elegance of the Edwardian period. The shift in architecture was marked, at least on this day, by a shift in noise as well. The city centre was boisterous and loud. Congested traffic, horns and sirens were amplified by the tunnel-like soundscape that the imposing buildings in a natural valley create. But as we climbed higher, we walked down quiet residential streets, with a more open feel.

We came to a the crest of a hill, to a lovely square of simple, honey-colored stone buildings surrounding a private garden.

From there, we walked passed streets of townhomes that reminded me of the East End in New York City.  In Scotland these townhomes are called tenement housing---the Victorian version of housimg developments or projects. There were both high-end and low-end tenement housing, and everything in between.

Tenement Homes, Glasgow

A beautiful front garden, Glasgow

A few crab apples hanging on to the final days of autumn, Glasgow.

2. The Tenement House Museum

I didn't visit many museums during this trip, but the one I did visit was fascinating. The Tenement House is a middle-class Glasgow time-capsule that has been preserved nearly exactly as it was at the turn of the 20th century. The Visit Scotland Website explains, 

"Experience early 20th-century Glasgow life in this ‘time capsule’ of a tenement house. Miss Agnes Toward lived here from 1911 until 1965, and looked after her furniture and possessions with love and care. Marvel at the coal-fired kitchen range and see how many household items from bygone decades you recognise – can you spot the jar of jam from 1929?"

Oops, I meant to take off the flash, but forgot to! A Victorian parlor.

The one bedroom, rented out by the lady and her mother who lived here.

The kitchen was the most fascinating room, and unfortunately I didn't get good photos of it. Apparently the owner basically lived in the kitchen, which included an original cast iron coal stove.

There are many other museums worth visiting in Glasgow, including the gorgeous baroque-style bulding that houses the free (!) Kelvingrove Art Gallery If I get a next time, that will definitely be on my list.

3. Glasgow Botanic Gardens

At the intersection of Byres Road and Great Western Road, sits the Glasgow Botanic Gardens. I spent the remaining afternoon and evening wandering down both of these wide avenues lined with all kinds of shops, cafes and restaurants. As dusk approached (around 4pm at that time of year!), I came to the Glasgow Botanic Gardens. 

Gates of the Glasgow Botanic Garden, looking onto Great Western Road

I spent a quarter hour strolling down its winding paths and peaceful lawns, enjoying quiet autumn beauty in the middle of a noisy city.

The gardens themselves were well into their autumnal decline, but the textures and warm browns and yellows of the fading vegetation against bright green grass were still beautiful and interesting to look at.

The Herb Garden in October, Glasgow Botanic Garden

Dusk at the Glasgow Botanic Gardens

 Leaving the garden (just before they locked the gates!), I walked down Byres Road and stopped in Waterstones Bookstore. I know it's a chain, but as it was my first time there, I was completely charmed. I browsed the bookshelves, contemplating how I might manage to pack an additional half-dozen books in my suitcase, sipped a mocha at the cafe and talked to my family back home.

The bookstore was preparing for an after-hours gathering---apparently a Scottish author who had written on New Orleans & Jazz music was going to read from his latest book. A lady sat down at my table and enthusiastically pitched the author & book to me.  Apparently this was her second or third time to attend one of his book signings. I briefly considered it because, you know, the irony of traveling to Glasgow to learn about New Orleans Jazz :-)---but decided to forge on ahead.

If the time had allowed, I would have gone on from there to the University of Glasgow (founded in 1451) and Kelvingrove Gallery. As it is, I'll have to wait for the next trip to Scotland! I ended up with a late supper at Kember & Jones , a charming cafe & bakery.

4. Glasgow Cathedral & Necropolis

On a Sunday afternoon I walked from the City Centre to Glasgow Cathedral. This stunning medieval church was built between the 13th and 15th centuries. 

Glasgow Cathedral

Glasgow Cathedral

Unfortunately I arrived just as a service was beginning, so I was unable to see the inside. But on such a lovely afternoon, I didn't mind. Instead I made my way across the Bridge of Sighs, which runs parellel to the Cathedral and provides stunning views of it all along the way.

This bridge runs across a ravine and connects to the Glasgow Necropolis.

View from the Necropolis back across the Bridge of Sighs

And what, you might ask, is a Necropolis???

In short, it is a cemetery, "designed as a botanic and sculpture garden" (see below).

I find the purpose "to improve the morals and tastes of Glaswegians" quite fascinating! Indeed, as King Solomon says, "It is better to go to a house of mourning than to go to a house of feasting, for death is the destiny of everyone; the living should take this to heart" (Eccl  7:2). 

Glasgow Necropolis

The views across the city on this nearly cloudless day were spectacular. The Necropolis was quite full of people walking around the paths, some in little clumps listening to a tour guide, others just out with the dogs for a glorious afternoon. During my Sunday afternoon promenade among these sculptural tombs I felt curiously connected to the Victorians who probably would have been doing the same thing!

The sun setting over Glasgow, taken from the Necropolis.

View of Glasgow Cathedral from the Necropolis 

5. Provand's Lordship House & Garden

Not far from the Cathedral,is the Provand's Lordship House, the oldest house in Glasgow.

Provand Lordship's House

A medieval house built in 1471, with rumors that  Mary, Queen of Scots may have stayed here, it's a fun little house that gives a real feel for how a 15th century medieval house looked and felt. Beware of the tiny doors, though! I almost didn't fit through one of them.

Behind the house there is a lovely courtyard with a physic (medicinal) herb garden.

The herbs are planted in groups based on the ailments they are used to treat. As I have a slightly obsessive fascniation with herbs, I loved this peaceful garden even at the end of the growing season.

As the sun sets on this Sunday evening stroll, this post comes to a close as well. Glasgow is a city of contrasts: energizing, bustling, friendly-city chaos interspersed with quiet peaceful moments. I loved that, and I hope you do to!

The next installment will cover my day in Edinburgh. It is an amazing city---not to be missed!


All photos and text belong to me. Do not copy or reproduce without asking. Thanks! :-)